2017年3月17日 星期五

Ein unvergesslicher Guzzi-Tag in Taiwan (永生難忘的咕雞日)

My 2010 Moto Guzzi V7 Classic at Jinguashih, TAIWAN. (攝於: 台灣 金瓜石) 

That was an unforgettable Guzzi day in Taiwan with a international Guzzista friend who comes from Koeln, Germany--Harold (aka: Sesam Harold). 

And another very good reason to post this journey. Yesterday, the 15 March, is 96th birthday of Moto Guzzi. (MG created since 15th, March, 1921)   

想臭屁地說: 本篇原本打算用德文寫,不過怕看得懂的台灣讀者太少所以改成中英文"不完全對照"

另一理由是英文版可供更多國際友人賞文,義大利的摩托車老廠MOTO GUZZI雖然不是大眾品牌,但絕對是個有品味的文化老品牌(創立於1921年3月15日,所以文章PO出的此刻,MG滿96歲又2天),它幾經搖搖欲倒卻也一路撐住,2021年,它將登上百年機車行列,經營出全球的Guzzi文化不容小覷;熱愛此品牌的死忠鐵粉車主,義大利文通稱: Guzzista (在台灣的我們則自稱"雞友")

**之前8個月超密集的德文課程,無奈日常生活上用不到德文,已將八成功力還給德國文化中心(歌德學院-Goethe Institut),僅剩拚湊不齊的超基本閱讀能力了...


25/November/2014
2014秋末


I was surprised that Harold travel between Germany and Taiwan for 10 years, but he never make even once a motorcycle touring. (Only with his 125cc. scooter) So, I invited Harold go for touring by my Moto Guzzi V7 classic.

這天我邀請來自德國科隆的新朋友騎車出遊,也是咕雞鐵粉(Guzzista)的哈洛(Harold Quirl);曾在TonUp cafe跟他有一面之緣但當時無攀談,而後因共同的咕雞友人,FB上互加了好友,有一次他來台灣前私訊我說有報導Norton的德文機車雜誌要送我,那時才知道他因作生意每年往返台灣兩次已經"十年"了,每次都待2~3個月,卻因為無認識安心可靠的租重車管道,一直僅用125cc.速可達遊北台灣;同是咕雞車友一見如故,共同話提不斷,對他長年來台灣但無大車體驗的狀況深感遺憾訝異,所以邀他東北角一日遊


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


He shares me his Guzzi life in Germany by pictures on Facebook.
哈洛在德國有一部改到看不出原車型是California的大橘色Moto Guzzi, 左上圖是長程旅行,右上圖是一個笑話梗: 哪部才是我的?(因為德國重車圈戲稱這款車震起來像水泥預拌機) 下方兩圖是他為孩子自製的電動車(圖片取自車主本人FB)

Another great cafe racer bike built by him.
另一部大改Cafe Racer的Yamaha XS650,為了追上橘子Guzzi,把它擴缸到1000cc.!! (圖片取自車主本人FB)

See that amazing and shining detail~~ 
真佩服德國人的工藝天份與此車的咖啡完成度,這台XS650我光看照片就直滴口水 (圖片取自車主本人FB)

--------------- Go back to our touring / 回到遊記本文 -----------------





Which one you would like to ride on today? I asked.  
There is no doubt that Harold was sure to choose Moto Guzzi! 
在地下車庫我問哈洛: 你要騎凱旋T100或咕雞V7? 想想白問了,Guzzista當然是騎咕雞囉!!

Thanks to Harold, this is a good chance to ride 2 of my motorcycles in a same trip. 
這回有哈洛幫忙,我終於能讓兩部愛車同時曬太陽~~(另一次是與法國車友騎已賣掉的BMW R1200R+ 現在還在騎的Triumph T100 環半島)


He told me that he was too exited about motorcycle touring in Taiwan and the most exiting reason is riding a very rare Moto Guzzi!! (There are less than 100 Moto Guzzi motorcycle in Taiwan before official MG distributor Nov/2016)

說實話我跟他剛認識,但我想他的騎車資歷那麼久,又是來自嚴謹出名的德國,騎車技術應該夠純熟,再不然身高184cm破百多公斤的大個子,腳放下來車就穩如泰山了~~所以安心地提出借他車一起出遊的計畫;而他則是前晚興奮到失眠

He couldn't sleep last night and felt dream comes true. 
德國大個子一圓夢想之旅開始~

Our one day route: Taipei city >> mountain >> North-east coast (Jinguashih) >> 62 express way>> Yangmingshan (volcano) >> Taipei city (160 km)

介紹今日北台灣一日遊的路線:  台北市>>國道3甲(目前全台唯一開放的高速路段)>>縣道106>>台2丙>>縣道102金瓜石不厭亭>>金瓜石私房景點>>62快速道路>>台2北海岸>>台2甲陽金公路>>台北市;里程數約160km


騎乘於北台灣我認為路況/風景/車流量最有日本道路水準的台2丙轉往102往瑞芳


A very famous site of several commercial video of Jinguashih.
北部名景:不厭亭,在我大學時第一次來此地即愛上它的美景與道路,今天伴著隨風搖曳的芒草花海,秋高氣爽的氣氛滿點~


We met some local bikers. 
不管大小車騎士都愛此景點


These 2 beautiful bikes rided by owner of cafe shop (father & son) which not far from here. 
遇到由縣道106上二輪族咖啡名店的父子檔騎來的翻新老車

European bike and Asian temple.
歐洲Moto Guzzi與台灣宮廟的結合


I couldn't understand why we call this kind seat "solo seat" untill I saw a big and tall German sit on it. (because I can share the same solo seat with my wife.)
從來不覺得單座墊只能坐單人(亞洲人小屁股勉強可擠2人),但今天看高大魁武的哈洛坐,我懂了~~~哈

Good season to see flowers of Miscanthus.  
前往私房景點,整個山頭的芒草花美不勝收 (勸濟堂停車場再往上騎)

Amazing view from end of road.
柏油路盡頭: 無耳茶壺山-半平山登山步道(路牌是這麼寫的...那就是吧)


With Triumph, let me desire to make a touring in Scotland.
這個景說實話可媲美歐洲,英國風情的凱旋配上此景讓我想去蘇格蘭騎車


Changed to Moto Guzzi, there is another desire to touring Lake Como, Italy.
Moto Guzzi的義式咖啡風格一入鏡又到南歐地中海了~~


騎車登高遠望而且有柏油路(<<重點),無上享受呀


Whole mountain was covered by silver flowers of Miscanthus.
芒草花將綠色山頭染上一層銀雪,超愛這條漫遊金瓜石路線


神秘隧道會不會通往神隱世界...(神隱少女動畫魂報到~~)


可以回頭了,因為此隧道只是通往勸濟堂的停車場...有些事停在幻想世界就好


左側是浪漫公路觀景台

所以身在勸濟堂停車場,穿過"以為會神隱的隧道",即可以到浪漫公路觀景台享受此景

無極索道的建築廢墟,荒廢得很有味道,金瓜石還有許多採金礦遺跡與文化建物可參觀,平假日人都不多,值得推薦


Ride down to the coast.
下山往海岸線騎去


黃金瀑布


I asked to Harold maybe he wanted to test-ride with a Triumph. 
"NO~~~, I am fine with Guzzi, thank you." Harold answered. 
北海岸風光,問哈洛要不要騎看看T100,不過問Guzzista換騎英國車是多餘的


Stop for testing some tradition food of Taiwan.
停車吃豆花,不過德國大個兒對甜食很弱

A sweet soup (dessert) made by tofu, called "Tohua"
網路抓個圖分享給外國朋友(圖片來源: Yuki's Life 部落格)


Grilled corn  (Stuffy cooked first by hot small stone,and then grill them.)
隔壁的炭烤石頭玉米,超棒!!


When we passed through Yangmingshan (volcano) was too much fog.
穿越陽明山回到市區,可惜濃霧湧上山,沒有火山地貌幫今日行程錦上添花


Maybe go to Taipei 101 for last sightseeing? But we will ride in to center of Taipei city in rush hour, so let's go home. (Taipei 101 is the highest building in Taiwan. Height: 509 meters, 101 floors)
回到台北市區,原本想加碼去跟台北101合照,不過想到下班車潮,趕緊閃回家為上策

He told me even wear a mask, he can felt his big smile all day. Today is an forgettable Guzzi day for him.
哈洛說雖然戴著面罩騎看不到臉,不過他全程開心到笑容都要開到耳朵了(這是德國對開心的比喻嗎?)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



10/December/2014 

After that touring, I think that is a good idea to present other truly passion Guzzista to Harold. This Guzzista can import vintage Guzzi then restore all detail by himself. 

台灣騎咕雞的圈圈很小(世界上也是...),當時無正式代理商,市面上一律是水貨,販售的車行基本上只賣車,維修備料全憑車主本事或買了"咕雞"變"孤"雞,所幸有一位騎車經驗豐富且DIY能力強大的咕雞車友熱心組織"孤兒雞車友社團",成立技術經驗分享與國外訂料的互助社群(其實大家都是受助的一方~~哈)所以兩位國際Guzzista怎能不認識交流一下呢?  

 帶哈洛拜訪雞長總部~~兩位Guzzista相見歡,尤其Harold對台灣重車這種小眾興趣市場中的小眾品牌很好奇...

我則是一旁欣賞雞長親手復原的老咕雞Moto Guzzi Eldorado

完全100%自己翻新:國際訂料,拆裝,整備引擎,我也有淺淺的老車整理經驗,知道這些事之瑣碎,需要專業知識,無盡的熱情與不少的預算才辦得到;如果這傢伙跑去開古董車翻新的店,那些修得一嘴好車的黑心"老塞車行"一定倒光光


細部整理100分,當然Guzzi本身就是義大利高度"機械"與"藝術"的結晶,線條美只是基本功~~況且近百年的堅持所孕育出的文化內涵不是單單騎上它能三言兩語道盡


另一部自辦進口的Moto Guzzi V11 LE MANS,上任美國車主將車況照顧得很好


"孤兒雞車友社團"的發起車款: V7 Classic;因為偶爾收留不懂修,沒人愛惜的流浪孤雞,雞總部常像個小小咕雞博物館


從台灣早年第一批咕雞開始聊到台灣咕雞界現狀,再聊到德國咕雞圈,果然要搞懂台灣咕雞大小事來問雞長就對了;要不是台灣Guzzista晚上有約,不然聊到半夜還嫌少~~接著我帶哈洛去補玩上一趟騎車沒去的九份老街,邊用晚餐邊看平日也很驚人的晚間遊客潮

Harold wrote a article of today's touring on MOTALIA magazine. 
(Heft 290, Jan. 2015)

哈洛將我們騎車出遊的內容整理並投稿到德國MOTALIA雜誌(義大利車的專門雜誌 第290期, 2015.1月號),內容為德文,不用翻字典我竟還看得懂3~4成,再猜個1~2成,東拼西湊也看懂一半了,真開心


Another Article which present motorcycle market and Moto Guzzi owners' club history in Taiwan (MOTALIA, Heft 292, April, 2015)

另一篇文則是與雞長所談的MG在台發展歷史,車主社團,加上哈洛自己向交通部訪談重車資訊的內容,刊載於2015.4月號,第292期的德國MOTALIA雜誌



7/February/2016
After that touring, we made a lot of touring plans in Taiwan and in Germany. There are so many possibility with motorcycle, but Harold went to heaven suddenly on Feb/2016 at home, I couldn't describe how sad and shocked that I knew this bad news. Couldn't meet him and ride motorcycle with him anymore, lost him is like lost one piece of my heart.

2016/2/6這天從FB傳來震驚德國Moto Guzzi界的消息: Harold在德國家中往生了...享年56歲,許多台灣也認識Harold的雞友都相當惋惜這段騎士的跨國情誼,而我的家庭成員跟Harold見面數次,一起用餐,聽聞德國騎車趣事,德國Guzzi與BMW車主如何互相取笑對方,聊天相當融洽,並相約要一起騎車上武嶺,相約參加德國Moto Guzzi車主聚會...這些共同喜好,東奔西跑的約定成為追憶,每每想到與他相處的時光心中總有無限的感傷,彷彿心中缺了一塊...



So I wrote down this article for memory my dear friend Harold: a Taiwan-loved Guzzista, I am sure now you become an eagle just like logo of Moto Guzzi and fly higher and higher. We definitely meet again in some place in the world. 

僅將此篇文章獻給哈洛:

一位曾經熱心熱愛Moto Guzzi的一切, 愛台灣, 愛橘色的我的好友, 我相信你已成為你最愛的Guzzi廠徽那隻老鷹,自由翱翔天際, 相信有緣份的我們會在世界的某一角落再相遇。

Auf Wiedersehen, mein Freund.